Top End 2013 - Wyndham #2

4th September

For the first time, this morning I failed to hear Derek's alarm go off, so I was awoken by him shaking my swag at eleven past four.

The tiredness really hit me this morning. I even napped in the car on the way to the count. I was in Catherine's team today - if I'm on Mike's team tomorrow, my hunch about a team a day will be confirmed.

Catherine (Different Catherine :P) and I were stationed at a place which on the sheet was simply labeled 'soggy'. Or 'soggy 2' in my case, and 'soggy 1' in Catherine's. Catherine 1, Ian and some others continued on.

A fairly uneventful mornings counting followed. Just three Gouldians, two juveniles and a very dull black head female, but plenty of masks, Longtails, Zebras, Double-bars, and loads of honeyeaters, including a single Black Chinned HE. A pair of Star Finches and A male Mistletoebird made appearances.

 Black-chinned & White-throated Honeyeaters, Double-barred Finches

 Mistletoebird

 Star Finches (female top, male below)

All this activity was despite a pair of Brown Goshawks building a nest in a tree within 10m of the water!

We were last back to the crocodile today. Derek and Sue had already left to go prepare for our visit to El Questro Station, so I got a lift back with Case, stopping briefly at the cemetery to observe the hundreds of Star Finches which make their home in the front hedges there.

As soon as I arrived back in camp, we set off again. We wanted to get to EQ early, as some areas are shut off at 10-12am/pm for exclusive use by the rich and famous who stay there.

The holey sign welcoming us to El Questro

We went first to Zebbedee Springs. I didn't bring my swimmers, so I didn't get in, but the springs are extremely beautiful and I had lots of fun messing around with (mostly unsuccessful due to acute tripod deficiency) long exposures on the waterfalls.

Some Zebbedee Springs shots

We drove into the station tourist centre for lunch, and then headed on to 'the jetty'. A very scenic view of the river was had, and as we were running out of time, we made only one other stop, Pigeon Hole Lookout. The view from there is spectacular, and I can only imagine what it must be like at sunrise and sunset.

Torresian Crow at lunch

 The view from the jetty

 Part of the view from Pigeon Hole Lookout

On the way out, Derek slammed on the brakes for some finches flying across the road. The finches had disappeared by the time we were out of the car, but looking up, I was very excited to see a soaring Black-breasted Buzzard, a lifer and a species I'd been wanting to see for a very long time.

Black-breasted Buzzard

We stopped for a short time back at Parrys, before heading up to 'the Bastion' for the BBQ dinner, traditional on the last evening of the official count. It was great fun, and with a view over Wyndham port we were able to watch the sun go down in a blaze of pink and orange.

 BBQ at the Bastion

 Sunset over Wyndham Port

After dinner, Gary Fitt announced the winners of the 'twitchathon' event, where we counted the birds we'd seen since arriving at Parrys. I came fourth, rather disappointingly, at 81. Catherine beat me at 92, Mike Jarvis (trust the professionals) second on 104, and Mike Fidler emerging on top with a great 106. Gary Fitt only got 88 though, so I feel a little better!

On the drive home in the dark, we followed Case. Mistake. Case overshot two turns, the turn into Parrys by almost 500 meters, calling into question just how much he'd had, and initiating much ribbing from Derek and Sue.

Tomorrow is our last day of counting, I'm hoping to be at the hospital as it seems a hotspot for Northern Rosella, but I doubt I will be. I asked Sarah and she said she'd see what she can do, but they've already got it planned out.

Up at four again, a mere 6 hours 7 minutes from now. And then I can have a long sleep in the car to Halls Creek, for the beginning of our Painted Finch hunt!


5th September

The last day of the last STGF count!!
My hunch was wrong, but possibly because I asked Sarah to put me at the hospital last night, and I was with Nina not Mike this morning.

I didn't get to go to the hospital, home of the Northern Rosellas in town, but instead I was stationed at the oval with Dave Holmes, Sven, and another chap whose name I forget.

We stationed ourselves out around the oval at various points. For the fist half hour, not much but Magpie-larks and Straw-necked Ibis were showing, but at around ten to six, a massive flock of Fairy Martins descended and began hunting over the grass. There would have been two hundred, easily. Further excitement was added by sixty or eighty Star Finches, of which I had very distant views on the opposite side of the oval.

At around six thirty, I heard a rustling in the tree above me, and some leaves drifted down. I glanced up, and a flock of Gouldians stared down at me - 4/4 days! Yesssss!!!!!!

The Gouldians descended in nervous flocks and foraged among the wet grass. Sadly, the light was not yet on them, and my camera was playing up so I was unable to manage decent shots, but I was very happy to see them, again!

After a while they began departing. Even though they'd been on the grass not five meters from me, I was green with envy when I saw where they were going. The whole flock of thirty plus birds landed in the small bush underneath which Sven was stationed. The gouldians were no more than half a meter directly above him, too close for his lens, and then they even started drifting onto the grass in the full sun in front of him! I could see him grinning from the other side of the oval.

The gouldians departed by seven, and I amused myself for a short while taking pictures of the Ibis in the sun, before wandering over for a chat with David.
Chats with David somehow always get round to the topic of Africa, in some form or another, but this time the conversation took us through all sorts of places overseas. Very educational, as always!

At quarter to eight, Sven joined us, still grinning. He hadn't been able to manage the fantastic shots I was expecting, as the sun was facing him with the gouldians in between. Poor Sven, but at least he got to see them so close!

We were picked up, and once we'd all arrived back we posed for the last full-group photo by the crocodile. Truly the end of an era, or perhaps not! i have caught wind of rumours of a Mount Isa count in the future.... Hmmm.
While Derek went to get fuel, I walked around the hospital grounds in a last ditch, futile effort to find Northern Rosella. I'm hoping to get it where I am now, although my chances are beginning to slim.

A very dark Brown Falcon at the hospital

Not yet as slim as my chances of Yellow Rumped Mannikin though, which in turn is not as slim as the now-impossible Kimberley Honeyeater. Bugger! Guess I'll just have to come back again.

We all met in the restaurant at Parry's, for a provided breakfast and some brief presentations. Sarah mentioned some interesting points in her count summary which I find difficult to believe, such as that apparently there were more Gouldians than Longtails recorded. David had pointed out to me not ten minutes earlier he had had so many longtails he hadn't been counting them all. BUT I guess the statistics don't lie!
Also, apparently the average daily count of gouldians was 900.

Several packs of postcards were given out as prizes to a couple of people. Elizabeth Fidler for "most gouldians seen",  the fellow-whose-name-escapes-me for the somewhat dubious prize of "least gouldians seen", Strop and Ian for "longest counters", and me for "youngest ever counter". David suggested (probably) jokingly that I prepare a presentation for Finches '17 titled "how to be a pest" when I arrived back at the table.

After goodbyes, the road was hit. I was asleep almost instantly, and remained that way for the majority of the several-hour trip down to Hall's Creek, where I am now. We've been to see the China Wall, a ridge of quartz that runs like the bleached spine of a long-dead dragon over the hills in a certain area. Stunning. Sadly though, last year's waterholes are dry. That means there's little chance of Derek finding his Painted Firetails, the main reason why we're here. Still, we're trying tomorrow anyway to see what can be found.

 China Wall

Top End 2013 - Wyndham

2nd September

We started today with a 4am wake up. We were away by 4.30, and we arrived in Wyndham by 5am for our first mornings count!

We all met by the Big Crocodile - a large and friendly looking concrete beast, which I wouldn't be hugely surprised to find out is Wyndhams biggest tourist attraction...

We were split into groups, There were four 'teams', led by Mike, Catherine, Sarah and Nina. I was in Sarah's team, which was the group dedicated to the just-out-of-town waterholes.

We arrived at the first waterhole at 5.20am. Gouldians are mainly morning-drinkers, so being there early is important. Sarah showed us the hole (a barely-damp seep among a stand of pandanus), and told us that this was the one waterhole where we were allowed to count birds in the trees - usually they only count them if they come to the ground, but when you can't see the ground, the trees have to do.

 

Sunrise at our first waterhole

Peter Phippen and I were left there for the morning, and the rest carried on over the hill. As we set up, we could see the birdlife around the water. Over a hundred Double-barred Finches, lots of Crimson Finches, Brown Honeyeaters, White-gaped Honeyeaters, Longtails, Maskeds, etc. etc.

We began our count when the first Gouldians arrived. Throughout our 5.30-8.00am survey we counted eight total, including three youngsters. All the adults were male, and all red heads except for one black head.

Soon after we arrived, we realised counting at this hole wasn't going to be providing much info to the researchers that day. A female Brown Goshawk flew in and lurked in the dense bushes, and a Brown Falcon was sneaking about. 

 

Brown Goshawk

 

Just as we were thinking how useless it was with the raptors there, an Australian Hobby flew into view. The finches in the trees became really nervous, and a couple of seconds later the Hobby stooped and banked at great speed straight into the bushes.

However, the hobby didnt count on there already being two other, larger, raptors already in wait - and all the birds involved got a bit of a surprise! The finches vanished in an instant. The Goshawk flapped clumsily out of the bushes looking very startled, the Hobby shot off back where it came from, and the Falcon ran off over the ground before flapping away.

It took half an hour for the finches to return, and when they did their numbers were somewhat smaller. The only other birds of interest during the morning was a small flock of Varied Sittella passing through the burnt woodland behind us.

We returned home for breakfast at the Parry's Creek restaurant. By then it was around 9.30am, and David Holmes, Cheryl Mares and I sat around and chatted for two hours before splitting up for sleep, photography, and in my case, the general direction if the pool. It was already over 28 degrees, (the edge of my true comfort zone). Thank god for shady pools.

After a long swim, we gathered in the front carpark so that Mike Fidler could lead us out to some fairly close by aboriginal rock art.

Our arrival at the area was as interesting as the art itself from my point of view. Mike's car got bogged, and once we'd all huffed and puffed to push it backwards out, he rolled it straight into another, bigger hole!

 

 De-bogging the car

 

 

Begin another half hour or so of pushing, spinning tyres and sand clouds before the car was free and we could wander around.

I actually saw no birds except double bar finches in the gorge. But I didn't mind, because the gorge was spectacular. Beautiful rocky cliffs on all sides, and the rock art was quite interesting too, although I'm not one for that type of thing really.

Even though I saw nothing, others saw White Quilled Rock Pigeon, and Mike Jarvis saw a Kimberley Honeyeater - a species I must try to get before leaving Parry's.

It was getting on in the afternoon by then, and quite hot, so I basically jumped straight out of the car and back into the pool when we got back. During the evening when it had cooled a bit further, I took a walk around the next-door waterhole,and though I saw plenty of Magpie Geese, White-gaped Honeyeaters, Brown Honeyeaters and even a single roosting fruit bat, no Kimberley Honeyeater or Lemon bellied Flycatcher.

Tonight all the 'camping counters' had dinner together, a barbecue in the camp kitchen, which was very nice.

 

3rd September

Day three of the count!

The by now usual 4am start was beginning to become a bit tiresome (pun intended). However, arise in the dark we did, and we got to the crocodile without incident.

I was placed in Nina's group, and since there are four groups and four mornings I suspect I might be getting a day in each.

I was stationed with Steve and Neil outside the Wyndham Preschool, a one minute walk from the big croc. As we arrived, I thought to myself 'well, no gouldians today'. It certainly didn't look like the place for it, being right in town and next to (what in wyndham passes for) a busy road. 

 

They turned on the sprinklers at least, which attracted all the local honeyeaters. White-throated, Rufous-throated, Brown, Yellow-tinted - all becoming commonplace now! On the power lines above us I was entertained by the antics of very large numbers of White-breasted and Black-faced Woodswallows, and after they had mostly departed (having warmed up for the day), an equally large flock of Fairy Martins.

 

Fairy Martins

At around 6.30 I was beginning to get bored. There was little activity and none of the finch variety in front of the sprinkler, so we were chatting away (quietly). I noticed a number of leaves falling from one of trees at the far end of the schoolyard, and turned my bins on it hoping for Crimson-winged Parrots, feeding and dropping leaves.

Well, I got one hell of a shock. Apparently there was a second, unnoticed sprinkler. The leaves were Gouldians, over 100 and probably closer to 150. Mostly juveniles, but a number of black headed (both male and female) and some red headed males. Hurriedly we grabbed out clipboards and counted, but it was futile - there were too many, and far too flighty, one minute on the ground, the next in the trees, the next on the ground again. We put in our best estimates as the flock continued to come down to drink.

Sadly, the preschool fence was in the way of good photos! But I managed a few shots as they flew into the taller trees around the school and departed.

While we had been watching them, two men came round the corner with cameras and I pointed out the Gouldians to them. I later discovered they had been hanging around the shire offices around the corner, talking loudly and annoying the hell out of the counters there. Probably why the gouldians came to us, the guys at the shire struck out entirely. 

 

Later that night, reading through the young birders group-chat, Ashwin had posted a link to an eremaea report of 100+ gouldians in Wyndham, noting it was coincidental for me. Apparently the two birders with cameras had written a report. If only he connection had been stable enough for me to reply and say that I was with them when they saw them!

We retired from our count somewhat early, as the raptors had risen and made the smaller birds disappear. Contented, we waited by the croc until it was time to head back to camp.

 

A somewhat distant, but still stunning male Crimson (red)-winged Parrot, put in an appearance while we were waiting at the crocodile

We relaxed in the pool until 11.30. I went and freshened up, and left Derek and Sue snoring poolside. I'd arranged to be in one of the cars heading to Emma Gorge, part of El Questro, at midday. Ian had warned us the previous night that it was a 40-minute, rock-hopping climb into the gorge, so Derek and Sue backed out. I was worried, but still went.

We arrived at Emma Gorge, which is a bit touristy, and sat down at their very nice restaurant for lunch. Staying at Parry's meant that I was unable to afford anything on their somewhat illustrious menu, but Peter Phippen very kindly shared some of his chips and salad with me

Silver-backed Butcherbird, a race of the Grey Butcherbird which I have no doubt will sooner or later be a full species, were hanging around the area.

A few stayed behind, but most of us headed off on the walk.

The walk, which I had been sort of dreading, was actually wonderful. I do enjoy rock hopping (usually more so in temperatures under 30 degrees), and the path led us through the bottom of the gorge in the shade, where the temperature was a good 5-8 degrees cooler than outside. The walk itself was beautiful - tall, green, seeding grasses, crystal clear streams, mysterious, weed-filled ponds bursting with aquatic life, and rounded, smooth rocks - some brilliantly patterned by centuries of rain and erosion. All flanked by enormous, red-rock cliffs, the upper regions glowing in the afternoon sun.

If the walk itself was beautiful, the rock pool at the end of Emma Gorge was just something else. In a cul-de-sac of fifty-meter high cliffs, emerald clear waters fed by hot springs around the edges, and a tiny stream falling over the top of the cliff provided a constant, almost rain-like patter of falling droplets. Some areas of the pool are freezing, and some are warm as a bath depending on how close to a spring you are. The water is ridiculously clean, clear as glass, and full of small rainbow fish.

And of course, as is utterly typical, my camera was accidentally left sitting on the table back in camp.

Unfortunately, I took a bit of a tumble over some rocks trying to climb a bit too fast up to an elevated rock pool. Nancy managed to half-catch me, breaking my fall with probably would have damaged my shoulder, and I came away very lucky with a small cut on my toe and shin, and a very sore rear end. 

If you are ever in that part of the world, budgeting for a day at Emma Gorge is absolutely essential. Take your swimmers and don't forget your camera!

Arriving back at camp, I was greeted with some jealousy-provoking news. While I'd been out gorge hopping and wrecking my toe, Derek and Sue had taken a drive and seen 200+ Pictorella Mannikins, a species I was, and am, running out of time to see

And just to add insult to the insult to the injury, Derek showed me some pictures of where he had been counting that morning (a place called Chimalu), and some of the birds that came down to drink. Arriving at a photo of some small green parrots, he gestured and said "now, what are these?"

The photo showed Varied Lorikeets, on the ground, drinking at the waterhole. DAMMIT!!!!!

After a while spent chatting after dinner, I got into conversation with Mike Jarvis about birding sites around Darwin. He said he was running a tour on the 15th (the morning before I fly out), and that I was welcome to tag along -i very quickly said yes! In conversation with Ashwin later, he said he was now worried, as a morning touring with Mike could net me 30-50 species, many of which would be year ticks, and many of which i wouldn't get otherwise. Heh heh heh.